Suntory & Nikka: The Story of Japanese Whisky

Japanese whisky has conquered the world. Bottles from Suntory and Nikka routinely win "Best in World" awards, and rare Japanese whiskies now fetch extraordinary prices at auction. But this success story starts with two remarkable men, a journey to Scotland, and a vision that most people thought was crazy.

The founders

Shinjiro Torii — Suntory

Shinjiro Torii was a pharmaceutical wholesaler in Osaka who became fascinated with Western spirits. In 1899, he started importing wine and spirits. By the 1920s, he dreamed of making whisky in Japan — not just imitating Scotch, but creating something suited to Japanese tastes.

In 1923, Torii built Japan's first whisky distillery at Yamazaki, on the outskirts of Kyoto. He chose the location for its exceptional water — the meeting point of three rivers, in an area known for centuries as a source of fine water. Sen no Rikyu, the legendary tea master, had his tea room here for the same reason.

Masataka Taketsuru — Nikka

Masataka Taketsuru was a young chemistry student who traveled to Scotland in 1918 to learn whisky-making firsthand. He studied at the University of Glasgow, apprenticed at several distilleries, and married a Scottish woman named Rita. When he returned to Japan in 1920, he was the country's only person with real knowledge of Scotch whisky production.

Torii hired Taketsuru as the first distillery manager at Yamazaki. But the two men eventually disagreed on the ideal location for whisky-making. Taketsuru wanted a colder climate similar to Scotland. In 1934, he left to found his own company — Nikka — and built a distillery at Yoichi in Hokkaido, surrounded by mountains and sea, with a climate remarkably like the Scottish Highlands.

The whisky

Suntory's distilleries

Yamazaki (est. 1923) — Japan's first and most famous distillery. Located in Osaka prefecture, surrounded by bamboo groves. Produces a range of styles, from light and floral to rich and sherried. The Yamazaki single malt is the flagship — when the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 was named World Whisky of the Year in 2015, it sent shockwaves through the industry.

Hakushu (est. 1973) — Set in a forest in the Japanese Alps at 700 meters elevation. Known as the "Forest Distillery," Hakushu produces lighter, more herbaceous whiskies with a distinctive freshness. The Hakushu single malt is prized for its green, minty character.

Chita (est. 1972) — A grain whisky distillery that produces the base for Suntory's blends. Chita grain whisky is also sold as a single grain, light and delicate.

Hibiki — Suntory's prestige blended whisky, combining malt from Yamazaki and Hakushu with grain from Chita. Hibiki Harmony is relatively available; Hibiki 17 and 21 Year Old are rare and sought-after.

Nikka's distilleries

Yoichi (est. 1934) — Taketsuru's dream distillery in Hokkaido. Uses coal-fired pot stills, a rarity in modern whisky-making, which gives the spirit a distinctly peaty, maritime character. Yoichi single malt is bold, smoky, and powerful.

Miyagikyo (est. 1969) — Also called Sendai distillery. Built in a valley where two rivers meet, in Miyagi prefecture. Produces a softer, more elegant style of whisky that complements Yoichi's intensity. Coffey stills here produce distinctive grain whisky.

Taketsuru Pure Malt — Nikka's flagship blend of Yoichi and Miyagikyo malts. Named after the founder, it's one of the best-value Japanese whiskies available.

Nikka From The Barrel — A cult favorite among whisky enthusiasts. Bottled at 51.4% from a blend of over 100 different batches. Rich, complex, and remarkably affordable.

The highball revolution

While connoisseurs sip rare single malts, the most popular way to drink whisky in Japan is as a highball (haibōru) — whisky topped with sparkling soda water over ice, sometimes with a lemon twist. Suntory's Kakubin (角瓶, "square bottle") is the quintessential highball whisky, and you'll find it at virtually every bar and restaurant in Japan.

The highball isn't just a drink — it's a cultural phenomenon. Suntory's marketing campaign in the late 2000s revived whisky drinking among young Japanese people by positioning the highball as a refreshing, food-friendly alternative to beer. It worked spectacularly. Today, the whisky highball is as Japanese as sake.

Visiting the distilleries

Both Suntory and Nikka offer distillery tours:

• Yamazaki — 45-minute tours with tasting. Extremely popular; book weeks in advance online.
• Hakushu — Tours available, more remote but beautiful mountain setting.
• Yoichi — Free self-guided tours with a museum about Taketsuru's life. Paid tastings available.
• Miyagikyo — Free tours with tastings, less crowded than Yamazaki.

Buying Japanese whisky

Prices in Japan are generally lower than abroad, but popular bottles sell out quickly. Department store liquor sections (depachika) and specialty shops like Shinanoya in Tokyo have the best selections. Convenience stores stock everyday options like Kakubin and Black Nikka.

Drinking Japanese whisky at bars

Many whisky bars in Japan carry extensive collections, including rare and discontinued bottles. A glass of rare whisky may cost ¥2,000–¥10,000 or more, but the experience is unforgettable. For a more casual experience, order a highball at any izakaya — it's usually ¥300–¥500. Use barhop.jp to find bars and cocktail bars near your location.