The History of the Izakaya: From Edo Period to Modern Day

The izakaya is the heart of Japanese social life — a place where friends gather, colleagues unwind, and strangers become drinking companions. Today there are over 150,000 izakayas across Japan, from tiny six-seat neighborhood joints to massive chain restaurants. But this institution has deep roots stretching back centuries.

Edo Period origins (1600s–1868)

The izakaya's story begins in the Edo period, when sake shops began allowing customers to drink on the premises. The word "izakaya" (居酒屋) literally means "stay-sake-shop" — "i" (居) meaning "to stay" and "sakaya" (酒屋) meaning "sake shop." Customers would stop by a sake dealer, buy a cup, and drink it right there rather than taking it home.

These early izakayas were simple affairs — a counter at the front of the shop, with perhaps a few barrels to lean on. Food, if any, was minimal: perhaps some pickled vegetables or dried fish. The clientele was largely working-class men — laborers, craftsmen, and merchants in Edo's (Tokyo's) bustling commercial districts.

By the mid-Edo period, some shops began offering simple cooked food alongside sake. Grilled fish, simmered dishes, and rice became common. The distinction between a sake shop and a small restaurant began to blur. The concept of "drinking with food" — so central to modern izakaya culture — was taking shape.

Meiji to early Showa (1868–1945)

The Meiji Restoration brought Western influences, including beer. German-style beer halls opened in major cities, but the traditional izakaya survived alongside them. In fact, izakayas adapted by adding beer to their menus while maintaining their identity as informal Japanese drinking spots.

During this period, izakayas became more clearly defined as restaurants where drinking was the primary activity and food was ordered alongside. The style of small shared plates (otōshi, tsumami) became standardized. Western dishes like kara-age (fried chicken, adapted from Chinese cooking) and potato salad (from Western influence) entered the izakaya menu and have remained ever since.

Postwar boom (1945–1980s)

After World War II, izakayas experienced a renaissance. Returning soldiers and factory workers needed affordable places to eat and drink, and izakayas filled that role perfectly. The postwar black markets and yokocho (alley markets) that sprang up near train stations were essentially outdoor izakayas — cheap food, cheap drinks, and a sense of community in difficult times.

The 1960s and 70s economic boom transformed izakayas. As Japan's salaryman culture intensified, the after-work drinking session (nomikai) became an essential part of business life. Izakayas were the default venue — affordable enough for regular visits, casual enough for honest conversation, and open late enough to accommodate Japan's long working hours.

The chain revolution (1980s–2000s)

In the 1980s, izakaya chains began to emerge. Companies like Watami, Murasaki, and later Torikizoku standardized the izakaya experience — laminated menus, tablet ordering, all-you-can-drink plans, and predictable quality. This democratized izakaya dining, making it accessible and untimidating for everyone, including tourists.

Chain izakayas introduced innovations that are now standard:

• Nomihodai (飲み放題) — All-you-can-drink plans, typically 90–120 minutes for a fixed price
• Course menus — Set menus designed for groups at farewell or welcome parties
• Tablet ordering — Digital menus with pictures, reducing the language barrier

The modern izakaya (2000s–present)

Today's izakaya scene is more diverse than ever:

Traditional neighborhood izakayas

Small, independent, often family-run. The owner knows the regulars by name. The menu is handwritten on the wall and changes daily. These are the soul of the izakaya tradition and can be found in every neighborhood.

Specialized izakayas

Many modern izakayas specialize: yakitori-ya (grilled chicken), motsu-yaki (grilled offal), seafood izakayas, and regional-cuisine izakayas focusing on food from Hokkaido, Kyushu, or Okinawa.

Neo-izakayas

A newer trend blending izakaya informality with higher-end cooking. Creative dishes, natural wines, craft beer, and curated sake lists in stylish settings. Popular with younger Japanese people.

Standing izakayas (tachinomi)

A return to the izakaya's roots — standing bars with counter service, cheap prices, and quick turnover. The fastest-growing segment of the izakaya market.

Izakaya culture and customs

Several customs have endured for centuries:

• Otōshi — The cover charge/appetizer system dates back to Edo period sake shops, where a small snack was included with the first drink
• Pouring for others — Serving each other's drinks rather than your own is a sign of respect that originated in formal sake drinking customs
• Kanpai — The toast ("cheers!") before drinking has roots in ancient Japanese ceremonial drinking
• Closing with a締め (shime) — Ending the meal with rice, ochazuke (rice with tea), or ramen is a tradition that helps absorb the alcohol

Why izakayas matter

The izakaya isn't just a restaurant — it's a social institution. In a culture that can seem reserved on the surface, the izakaya is where barriers come down. Colleagues speak honestly, friends catch up, and strangers find common ground over shared plates and clinking glasses. For visitors, there's no better window into everyday Japanese life.

Use barhop.jp to find izakayas and bars near you — from traditional neighborhood spots to modern chains. Every izakaya tells a story that connects to centuries of Japanese drinking culture.